Emily Brubaker likes to create food that’s simple but flavor-forward. It’s a focus that put her in the role of resort executive chef at Omni La Costa Resort & Spa — and made her the winner of the first season of the NBC food competition show “Yes, Chef!” helmed by judges Martha Stewart and Jose Andres, which aired earlier this summer. That win earned her $250,000.
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The show was a unique mix of the by-now traditional series of individual and team contests that we’ve become accustomed to from shows like “Top Chef,” combined with a strange dynamic of helping participants overcome personality and behavior issues for which friends, family, and co-workers nominated them. “Yes, Chef!” was just as focused on — and complicated by — the interpersonal drama these issues created as it was on the food. Brubaker was nominated by her husband, chef Jake Brubaker of the La Jolla Beach & Tennis Club, for her “stubbornness” and “insecurity.” Others clearly had control and temper issues that manifested themselves throughout the series.
What struck me, though, as I watched the series was neither stubbornness nor insecurity from Emily Brubaker, but the mama bear role she assumed with fellow competitors in team challenges that even extended to the dishes she chose to prepare — and that won her Most Valuable Chef (MVC) on three episodes. And she’s sharing some of those recipes here.
Brubaker’s seasonal recipes include some of the dishes that earned her Most Valuable Chef designations on several episodes of the culinary competition. Clockwise from front: Grilled Whole Branzino With Corn Puree and Pan-Roasted Corn and Asparagus; White Bean and Anchovy Dip With Potato Chips; Peach Bourbon Slab Pie; and Roast Carrot Salad. (Howard Lipin / For The San Diego Union-Tribune)
It’s no surprise that these dishes are pretty time-efficient. For instance, Brubaker’s White Bean and Anchovy Dip With Potato Chips earned her her first MVC during a challenge in which the teams had to allot time for each chef on their team to complete their dish.
“I wanted to give my team as much time as they possibly could get for challenges,” she recalled. “I saw the white beans and anchovies and recalled how my chef friends in Las Vegas, where I had worked, would play with them in every way. So, I thought I’d make a dip. It’s quick and it’s appetizing. And I added potato chips. They could not get enough of my chips. It was hilarious.”
Brubaker prepared grilled branzino with corn puree for another challenge as well as roasted carrots on orange labneh with harissa vinaigrette — another MVC win. We have those recipes as well.
A Carlsbad native, Brubaker earned a psychology degree at UC Santa Cruz before going to cooking school at Le Cordon Bleu in Pasadena.
“The psychology degree really helped me on the show because I could see what was going on with the other contestants,” she said.
It’s clear that her culinary education also served her well. She went on to work at Joël Robuchon’s Las Vegas restaurant early in her career, as well as Sage at the MGM Resorts International. She took some time off to raise her two kids, and last year the family relocated from Vegas to San Diego for her current job. Now she oversees the development of new dishes and menus for multiple restaurants at La Costa.
Brubaker’s winning White Bean and Anchovy Dip With Potato Chips is super easy and quick to make. Puree the beans, garlic, coriander, cumin, paprika and anchovies in a blender before slowly adding in olive oil. Once the mixture is smooth, you add lemon juice and kosher salt to taste.
That can be all, but you’ll want to also make the herb oil that accompanies the dip. Clean your blender container and fill it with parsley, the anchovy oil from the dip’s anchovies, rosemary leaves, garlic and lemon zest, and pulse.
Brubaker showed me how she makes her quick and simple homemade potato chips: Use a mandoline to slice russet potatoes very thin. Then briefly place the slices in cold water to wash off excess potato starch. Heat a large, deep skillet or a pot with grapeseed oil to 325 degrees (use a candy thermometer) and fry the potato slices in batches, drain them on paper towels and immediately season them with kosher salt.
To serve, spread the bean dip around a serving plate, leaving a large hole in the center to place the chips, then drizzle the herb oil on top of the dip. So pretty and so delicious — just don’t save the chips for later. They are best after they’re just made. Can’t make chips? Serve with store-bought, or crackers.
Brubaker’s grilled whole branzino is the main event. She serves it with a unique corn puree with pan-roasted corn and asparagus. Sound intimidating? It’s not at all. A whole fish is a great break from fillets. Go to a fish market and, if branzino isn’t available, Brubaker suggested any kind of seabass that’s around 2 pounds. Make sure it’s gutted.
Start with the side dish, because the branzino will cook very quickly. For the corn puree, melt butter until it just starts to brown, then add the corn kernels and cook until they’re very tender. Place it all in a blender and puree, then season with salt. Next up is the roasted corn and sliced asparagus. This, too, is simple. Pan roast the vegetables in butter until they just start to get color, then remove from heat. If you’d like to add your own choice of herbs and spices, go for it.
Now you can grill the fish. Season it inside and out on the skin with just salt and pepper. Fill the cavity with lemon slices and thyme sprigs. Spray the branzino with cooking spray so that it doesn’t stick and place the fish on a hot grill. Don’t try to move it until it easily releases from the grill, so the skin will crisp and stay intact while the flesh cooks. Then flip the fish and, again, don’t move it until it gives easily.
Serve the fish with the corn puree topped by the pan-roasted corn and asparagus. Squeeze fresh lemon juice over the dish.
If you’re having a dinner party, you’ll want to have even more food on hand, so we have another dish that won Brubaker an MVC: her Roast Carrot Salad. I like carrots, but I don’t love them, but I loved these Middle Eastern-style carrots.
Brubaker roasts rainbow carrots cut in half and tossed in coriander, olive oil and salt at 375 degrees for just over 15 minutes, until they’re tender and caramelized. While they’re cooking, she mixes labneh — a tangy, thick, strained yogurt — with orange zest and juice and a bit of salt. Then she makes her Harissa Vinaigrette. Harissa is a North African chili paste that’s, yes, spicy, but also very earthy and smoky. She uses the Hamsa brand made by friends, but you can easily find harissa in markets. Mix the harissa with orange juice, olive oil and a touch of salt. Finally comes a little bit of dukkah, a nutty mix of herbs, seeds and spices. Toast coriander seeds, cumin seeds and black and white sesame seeds, then grind them by hand in a molcajete (think mortar and pestle) or in a spice grinder until you have a semi-fine grind.
Brubaker, a Carlsbad native who worked in top Las Vegas resorts before relocating back to San Diego County, oversees the development of dishes and menus for multiple restaurants at Omni La Costa Resort & Spa. (Howard Lipin / For The San Diego Union-Tribune)
To put it all together, spread the labneh on a salad plate and top with about seven carrot halves. Drizzle with the vinaigrette and sprinkle the dukkah on top.
Ready for dessert? Here is Brubaker’s summery Peach Bourbon Slab Pie. For this, she used peaches from her tree at home. You could also substitute other fresh summer fruit or use the basic recipe and transition into other seasonal fruit throughout the year. To make the dough, use a stand mixer to combine flour, salt and sugar, then add cubes of cold butter and blend until you have a sandlike texture. Keep a glass of ice water nearby, because now you’ll add the water one tablespoon at a time as the mixer is on until the dough just comes together. You won’t need all the water.
Her crust recipe is pretty standard, but she improves on it with a bit of brown sugar. Her most important tip is to only mix the ingredients until crumbly. Then pull the dough out of the mixing bowl and divide it in two. Shape each in a flat square, wrap in plastic and let rest in the refrigerator for at least two hours but up to 24.
To make the filling, cut the peaches into wedges and toss in a large bowl with cornstarch, kosher salt, sugar, vanilla bean paste and bourbon (or lemon juice).
Now you put it together. Pre-heat the oven to 375 degrees. You’ll bake the pie on a quarter sheet pan (13 inches by 9 inches). Roll out each crust about an inch wider and longer than the pan. Press the edges of the bottom dough against the sides and just a bit over the top. Place the peach mixture evenly over the dough, then cover with the top dough so it just hangs over the sides. Pinch together the top and bottom edges of the dough all the way around. You can cut designs or slashes — or create a lattice — in the top dough to release steam. Whisk an egg and brush that on top of the dough and sprinkle a little sugar on top. Bake for 40 to 50 minutes until golden brown and bubbly. Brubaker suggests serving it with butter pecan or vanilla ice cream. Got leftovers? Slice it up and wrap the pieces to store in the freezer.
The white bean dip and chips was a big hit on the TV set. (Howard Lipin / For The San Diego Union-Tribune)
White Bean and Anchovy Dip With Potato Chips
Makes 4 servings
INGREDIENTS
For the bean dip:
12 ounces white beans
5 garlic cloves
1 1/2 tablespoons ground coriander seeds
1 1/2 tablespoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon paprika
1 1/2 ounces anchovies
3 1/2 ounces olive oil
2 1/2 ounces lemon juice
Fine kosher salt to taste
For the herb oil:
1 bunch parsley, leaves picked
2 tablespoons anchovy oil, strained from anchovy container
1 sprig rosemary, leaves picked
3 cloves garlic
1 lemon, zested
For the potato chips:
3 russet potatoes, sliced thin on mandoline
2 gallon grapeseed or other vegetable oil for frying
Fine kosher salt to taste
DIRECTIONS
1: Make the bean dip: Add beans, garlic, spices and anchovies to a food processor and process until smooth, about 4 minutes.
2: Add olive oil slowly. We are looking for a combined smooth texture. Add lemon juice once smooth and season with kosher salt to your taste. Reserve; this dip is great either at room temperature or cold.
3: Make the herb oil: In a blender, combine all ingredients and pulse until you have a broken vinaigrette. Drizzle over bean dip to your taste.
4: Make the potato chips: Place potato slices in cold water to wash off excess potato starch.
5: Heat oil in a deep frying pan to 325 degrees. Use a candy thermometer to keep temperature steady.
6: Fry potatoes in batches until golden. Drain on paper towels and season with salt. Reserve until ready to eat. Serve with bean dip.
Note: These will get stale overnight.
The whole branzino is grilled with lemon and thyme sprigs in the cavity, and it’s served with a duo of corn puree and pan-roasted corn and asparagus. (Howard Lipin / For The San Diego Union-Tribune)
Grilled Whole Branzino With Corn Puree and Pan-Roasted Corn and Asparagus
Makes 4 servings
INGREDIENTS
For the corn puree:
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 ears white or yellow corn, cut kernels from cob
Kosher salt to taste
For the pan-roasted asparagus and corn:
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 ears white or yellow corn, cut kernels from cob
1 bunch green asparagus, cut on bias into coins
Fine kosher salt to taste
For the branzino:
2 pounds whole branzino, gutted
Fine kosher salt to taste
Ground black pepper to taste
1 lemon, sliced into rounds
3 sprigs thyme
Cooking spray, as needed
1 lemon, cut in half
DIRECTIONS
1: Make the corn puree: In a saute pan, melt butter until it just starts to brown, add corn and toss in butter. Turn down heat to low and let slow cook until corn is very tender.
2: Add to blender and let blend until smooth, 3 to 5 minutes. Season with salt. Set aside.
3: Make the pan-roasted corn and asparagus: In a saute pan, melt butter and let it slightly brown. Add corn and asparagus and roast until it just starts to get color. Season with salt.
4: Make the branzino: Season fish inside and out on skin with salt and pepper. Place lemon rounds and herbs inside the cavity of the fish. Spray fish with cooking spray.
5: Grill the fish, making sure it stays in one place to ensure that skin will crisp and that flesh cooks through. Flip fish to grill second side. Once fish is cooked, the fillets should easily peel away from the bones.
6: While fish is grilling, place lemon halves flesh side down on the hottest part of your grill. Grill until there is deep caramelization. It sweetens the lemons.
7: Serve fish with corn puree and corn and asparagus. Squeeze fresh lemon juice over the dish.
The Middle Eastern-style roast carrots yielded an “MVC” win, with orange-coriander labneh and a harissa vinaigrette. (Howard Lipin / For The San Diego Union-Tribune)
Roast Carrot Salad
Makes 4 servings
INGREDIENTS
15 rainbow carrots, cut in half
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
3 tablespoons olive oil
Fine kosher salt to taste
For the orange and coriander labneh:
6 ounces labneh
2 oranges, zested and juiced
2 teaspoons ground coriander
Fine kosher salt to taste
For the harissa vinaigrette:
2 1/2 ounces Hamsa brand Harissa or any harissa paste or sauce
2 ounces orange juice
3 ounces olive oil
Fine kosher salt to taste
For the dukkah:
1 tablespoon coriander seed, toasted
2 tablespoons cumin seed, toasted
2 tablespoons black and white sesame seeds, toasted
Brubaker drizzles the harissa vinaigrette over the roast carrot salad. (Howard Lipin / For The San Diego Union-Tribune)
DIRECTIONS
1: Make the roasted carrots: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Toss the carrots with coriander, olive oil, and salt. Roast in oven for 15 to 20 minutes, until caramelized and tender. Set aside.
2: Make the orange and coriander labneh: Whisk together all ingredients except salt until smooth. Season to taste.
3: Make the vinaigrette: Mix together harissa and orange juice. Whisk in olive oil. Add salt to taste.
4: Make the dukkah: Using either a molcajete or a spice grinder, add all ingredients and pulverize until a semi-fine grind.
5: Assemble the salad: Swoosh labneh on plate. Place seven carrots on top, drizzle vinaigrette over carrots and around the dish, finish with dukkah over the top.
A bit of brown sugar and bourbon help enhance the pie. You could also substitute other seasonal fruit for the peaches. (Howard Lipin / For The San Diego Union-Tribune)
Peach Bourbon Slab Pie
Makes 8 servings
INGREDIENTS
For the pie crust:
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 tablespoon fine kosher salt
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1/2 pound cold butter, cut into cubes
1 cup ice water (you will not use it all)
For the peach filling:
1 to 1 1/2 pounds fresh peaches, cut into wedges
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1/2 teaspoon fine kosher salt
6 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon vanilla bean paste
1 1/4 ounces Woodrow Reserve Bourbon
For finishing:
1 egg, beaten
Sugar In the Raw
Only mix the crust ingredients until just crumbly, Brubaker cautions. Here, she made a lattice design for the top crust, but you could also simply cut designs or slashes into the top crust to release steam. (Howard Lipin / For The San Diego Union-Tribune)
DIRECTIONS
1: Make the pie dough: In a stand mixer fitted with whisk attachment, add flour, salt and sugar. Mix on slow for a minute to get it fully incorporated.
2: Add in butter and let the mixer slowly cut the butter into the flour until it resembles sand. Slowly add ice water 1 tablespoon at a time until the dough starts to come together. The dough should hold shape very loosely, almost crumbly. Cut dough in half and shape each into a flat square. Wrap in plastic wrap and let rest 2 to 24 hours in the refrigerator.
3: Roll each piece of dough out to just an inch or so larger all around than a quarter sheet pan, 13 inches by 9 inches. Lay one piece of pie dough on the bottom of the sheet pan and press the edges up against and just over the edges of the pan.
4: Make the peach filling: Toss all filling ingredients together in a large bowl.
5: Spread peaches over the dough-lined sheet pan. Lay the second sheet of pie crust over the top of the peaches and pinch together with the bottom dough. Here you can cut designs or slashes in the top to release steam. Alternately, you can create a lattice for the top crust.
6: To bake, pre-heat oven to 375 degrees. Whisk an egg and brush it on the top of the crust. Sprinkle with Sugar In the Raw.
7: Bake the pie for 40 to 50 minutes until golden and bubbly. Serve with butter pecan or vanilla ice cream.
Recipes by Emily Brubaker.