
The MOHI Food & Wine Festival is one of the better examples of an accessible and navigable event that brings guests in direct contact with amazing local chefs and winemakers.
Organized by Chef Charlie Palmer and Santa Clara Valley entrepreneur Frank Leal, the festival came back for its second installment on Oct. 5 in downtown Morgan Hill.
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Impressed by the region’s farms, restaurants and wineries, Palmer and Leal created the inaugural event last year, featuring a sensational lineup of food and wine from local and celebrity chefs and a great assortment of winemakers.
Palmer, who is building an Appellation Hotel in downtown Morgan Hill in partnership with Leal that is slated for completion in 2026, said, “Morgan Hill has the spirit, talent and energy to stand shoulder to shoulder with any food and wine destination.”
A sold-out crowd feasted on superb pairings like the Lion Ranch 2023 Grenache Blanc made by Kim Engelhardt from San Martin, which paired nicely with bites of Toma and other cheeses from Pt. Reyes, as well as with the house-smoked pastrami pastry with gruyere and Wise Goat Organics ‘kraut from Cristobal Castro of Léal Hospitality.
Morgan Hill’s Twice Tyger 2023 Petit Verdot complimented the short ribs with marina from Bryan Voltaggio of Voltaggio Brothers Steakhouse in Santa Monica, and the char-grilled hangar steak with corn and scallion salsa and truffle butter prepared by Executive Chef Nicola Cavicchini and Chef de Cuisine Rodrigo Salvador of CordeValle was a superb pairing with a smooth and silky old vine Harney Lane Zinfandel.
Grilled Morro Bay oysters with fermented pineapple and pink peppercorn mignonette, topped with cilantro oil by Chef Julian Asseo of Les Petites Canailles in Paso Robles, succulent scallops from Chef Shane McAnelly of Dry Creek Kitchen, cedar-planked salmon with squash hummus and tomato relish from Chef Marco Fossati of Appellation Lodi and Executive Chef Thomas Bellec, and a wonderful sourdough tartine topped with fried oyster mushrooms, pickled apple and goat milk feta by Melissa Yanc of Quail & Condor in Healdsburg were among the mouthwatering selections on the vast, diverse menu.
Guests got to sip on Chandon Brut while perusing the displays from Leal’s various businesses, including the new Luxe by Leal cafe and wine bar, D.I.Y. flower bar (the downtown spot also features a community workspace), and shop for candles and jewelry from local vendors while grooving to the sounds of DJ Khosmo. There was quite a bit of dancing going on, especially once the DJ spun “Brick House” by the Commodores.
Among those in the hip-swaying groove was Chef Todd Fisher of Meatery in Salinas, who swirled his “Caveman Style” Prime Tomahawks like castanets as he danced to the music. He paused from his gyrations to carve off decadent bites topped with burnt cherry tomato and oyster butter, and paired with the 2015 Leal Carnavál Meritage Blend. We were licking our chops for a long time after.
Showcasing how creatively chefs paired their dishes with the wineries with which they were teamed is the secondary intent of the Appellation team. It’s not as easy as it appears. Palmer is a big fan of the intersection of a well-designed dish with the perfectly matched wine, and it was quite evident which chefs took that task seriously and which just launched a paper airplane and hoped it might fly. The wines were quite pretty but were often left standing at the altar by their alleged escorts.
Among my top pairing picks were the 2022 Bricoleur Vineyards Estate Pinot Noir from Windsor, made by winemaking legend Bob Cabral, paired with a sensational grilled lamb chop atop creamed spinach with poached strawberry, prepared by Chef Sal Calisi and his culinary team at Odeum; the pulled pork taco with pear salsa from Chef Emanuel Vasquez of Cochis Kitchen paired with the Lange Twins Chenin Blanc; and the creaminess and depth of the 2022 Sarah’s Vineyard Estate Chardonnay, which elevated the excellent grilled chicken with mustard, charred broccolini, hourani (an ancient grain) and heirloom tomato salad prepared by Chef Michael Jochner and students in the Morgan Hill Unified School District’s culinary program, which was this year’s even beneficiary. The students were cheerful and eager to please, and it was gratifying to see the great reception they received.
Those who paid the VIP ticket price of $400 had access to Tsar Nicolai caviar, Hog Island oysters, Cypress Grove cheese and VELI Vodka (from Montana) cocktails.
“Growing and investing in the next generation of culinary professionals who will feed this country from local farms that are investing in sustainable agriculture is the ultimate goal here,” Palmer told Edible Silicon Valley editor Coline LeConte, with whom I shared samples of most all the food.
A big shout out to all the volunteers who helped make this event an epic party of which Morgan Hill can be very proud.
Up in Menlo Park, Hotel Nia’s signature restaurant, Porta Blu, is hosting its final Passport Dinner of 2025 on Thursday, Oct. 23. Embark on a trip to Sicily with dishes like Caponata Bruschetta with melanzane, olives and basil paired with Donnafugata Floramundi ’22, arancini with ragu, peas and Parmigiano Reggiano paired with Benanti Etna Rosso ’22, and Bucatini alla Siciliana with caramelized shallot, roasted tomato and anchovies paired with Feudo Montoni Catarrato Masso ’24. Insalata Mista with red wine vinegar, frantoia olive oil and oregano follows with Pietradolce Rampante ’20. End the evening on a sweet note with a zabaglione paired with Marsala wine. Reservations are $85 on OpenTable.