Perhaps surprisingly, Lodi is California’s largest American Viticultural Area, or AVA, producing around 40% of all premium wine grapes in the state, and it’s starting to get a lot of attention for the role it plays in state-wide wine production.
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With 40,469 planted acres, the Central Valley town located approximately two hours northeast of San Francisco has more wine-growing land than Napa and Sonoma combined. It’s best known for its zinfandels, and specifically, its old vine zins (many upward of 100 years old) but is also a major producer of cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, merlot and petite sirah.
A perfect tourist itinerary combines all of Lodi’s best agricultural exports. While largely focused on wine grapes, the region is also known for its other crops, such as almonds, walnuts, olives, cherries and stone fruit, that land on tables dedicated to the farm-to-fork movement throughout town. You’ll find these luxuries in every corner, from food and beverage to local products and spa treatments.
First, wine
A great first stop on any wine-tasting journey through Lodi is at the Lodi Wine Visitor Center. The tasting room doubles as an informational center offering tastes and bottles of locally produced vinos as well as expert advice on where to spend your time. The general manager, Paul Marsh, is a sommelier well-versed in the local terroir; pick his brain on the best varietals, sip through a rotating wine flight and purchase bottles from well-known and lesser-known labels, many that don’t have their own tasting rooms. Adjacent to the building is a demonstration vineyard where you can begin your educational journey.
When you’re ready to explore the surrounding vineyards in Lodi’s rolling hills, you’ll have plenty to choose from, and where you go will largely depend on what atmosphere you’re chasing as well as what varietals you like most.
In Acampo, Durst Winery & Estate’s new barrel and tasting room offers mezze and Italian varietals with an emphasis on accessibility. (Mike Alt for Durst Winery & Estate)
Durst Winery & Estate in Acampo (which bleeds effortlessly into Lodi proper and is part of the represented AVA) operates in the backyard of the owner’s historic house, giving it a homey quality that doesn’t cheapen the elevated ambience. A new barrel and tasting room offers mezze and Italian varietals with an emphasis on accessibility; wines are priced not only reasonably but also almost the same across the board to encourage guests to buy their favorites instead of budgeting.
The winemaker recently shifted the menu to more European, Old World-style varietals. Plus, wine-based spritzes are also on the menu, ideal for enjoying on a warm afternoon underneath the shade of an umbrella, hopefully with your pup in tow (thewine maker loves it when guests bring their furry companions).
Bokisch Vineyards provides a lineup of Spanish varietals largely produced from trimmings brought to the U.S. in suitcases before such practices were outlawed. The winery is perched on Atkins Road overlooking rows of vineyards and boasting some of the best sunsets in town. Enjoy crisp albarino, vibrant Garnacha and tannic tempranillos. Or dive into the label’s French portfolio, a collection of more recognizable varietals including malbec, merlot and syrah. The property keeps a busy social calendar with plenty of after-hours and weekend events that explore wine and food alongside music and culture.
Perched on Lodi’s Atkins Road overlooking rows of vineyards, Bokisch Vineyards boasts some of the best sunsets in town. (Courtesy of Bokisch Vineyards)
WOO GIRL! Cellars offers exactly the atmosphere you’d expect from the fun and carefree name (that the owner painstakingly ruminated over for months). Inside the chic building, touches of feathers and faux fur feel luxe and feminine while the exposed brick wall and ceiling beams add warmth. Vivian Valenzuela is the owner, grower and winemaker combining fruit from her Mokelumne River-front property with other bounty to turn out a line of rosés and sparkling wines. The expansive lawn just beyond the winery doors are the setting for DJ parties and yoga practices, plus a swimming pool is sometimes open to guests.
Oak Farm Vineyards is one of the most coveted spaces to end your evening. It’s open until at least 6 p.m. daily in a land where most wineries close their doors by 5 p.m., and on Thursdays and Sundays, live music and extended evening hours make for enjoyable late nights. This is the ideal excuse to uncork a bottle and sprawl out on the lawn underneath towering 100-year-old oak trees while listening to local musicians and visiting with friends. Small tables and larger communal picnic benches set the scene for an evening of rest, relaxation and community.
At Oak Farm Vineyards, small tables and larger communal picnic benches set the scene for an evening of rest, relaxation and community. (Courtesy of Oak Farm Vineyards)
Pair with food
In between those winery stops, you’ll need sustenance, and Lodi is ripe with inviting family-owned joints. Pietro’s Trattoria is a standout amongst visitors and locals alike, serving a varied menu of California favorites rooted in rustic Italian cooking. Started in 1956, the brand’s Lodi location dates back to 1985. All pastas are made in-house and pair wonderfully with the wine list—a mix of Italian varietals and local producers. The braised oxtail ($31) served with polenta and salsa verde is a must-try, as is the Porchetta made with crispy-skinned Tuscan pork belly ($28).
Papapavlo’s Bistro & Bar serves a Mediterranean menu of crowd-pleasers. It’s hard to visit without experiencing the flaming cheese appetizer—saganaki—or wild caught seafood, but truly anything on the lengthy menu will delight. You can continue your wine journey here, or switch to a cocktail utilizing the restaurant’s full bar.
Experience what’s new
The award-winning Appellation Lodi – Wine & Roses Resort and Spa brings a touch of luxury in the middle of an otherwise casual town. (Courtesy of Appellation)
One of the most exciting unveilings to come to Lodi is the partnership between the existing Wine & Roses and Charlie Palmer’s Appellation hospitality group, reopening the beloved property as Appellation Lodi – Wine & Roses Resort and Spa. The award-winning destination is a touch of luxury in the middle of an otherwise casual town. And with Palmer’s influence, the food and beverage offerings especially have been elevated.
Palmer’s team works closely with local winemakers and farmers to create a menu that is distinctly Lodi. In fact, Palmer says a large part of the reason he chose Lodi for his first Appellation unveiling was because of its quiet Americana charm—which inspired the name of the property’s main dining concept, Americana House—and robust agricultural offerings.
At Americana House at Appellation Lodi – Wine & Roses Resort and Spa, chef Charlie Palmer pairs his wine with oysters in a Maison Lodi hot sauce. (Courtesy of Appellation)
In addition to local vinos, Palmer brings his own wines—he owns an estate in Healdsburg—as well and pairs them with his gourmet American cuisine. Cozy up near the fireplace to enjoy oysters in a Maison Lodi hot sauce (market price) before a dinner of Liberty Duck Breast & Leg Confit ($49).
Breakfast and coffee are served on property at Palmer’s second restaurant, Maison Lodi, a quick-serve counter spot next door to the Lodi Wine Visitor’s Center.
Cheddar scones are among the breakfast offerings at a quick-serve Maison Lodi, Charlie Palmer’s second restaurant on the Wine & Roses property. (Courtesy of Appellation)
Before you leave, consider slipping into the property’s spa. Tucked away in a mini-oasis, the spa draws on its natural surroundings much as the chefs do in the kitchen. For a weekend spent in wine country, the Wine Wrap fits the theme, offering a silkening body polish made from grapeseed and champagne rose oil. The treatment includes a refreshing shower in the secluded outdoor space that feels like you were transported to a tropical paradise and treats dry, aging or sun-damaged skin ($160). Of course, it’s just one of several selections available, including massages, seaweed wraps and seasonal facials.
There are more than 85 wineries to explore in Lodi including many historic properties and multi-generational operations. In all, 125+ varietals are represented within the AVA. Consider the events calendar at www.visitlodi.com, which continues well into the winter months, offering new ways to explore and eat your way through the town.
Lodi Wine Country: If you go
Appellation Lodi – Wine & Roses Resort and Spa: 2505 W. Turner Rd., Lodi, (209) 334-6988; appellationhotels.com/hotels/california-lodi
Lodi Wine Visitor Center: Open 10 a.m.-5 p.m., 2545 W. Turner Rd., Lodi, (209) 365-0621; lodiwine.com
Durst Winery & Estate: Open noon-5 p.m. Thursdays-Mondays, 10173 Acampo Rd., Acampo, (209) 601-1413; durstwinery.com
Bokisch Vineyards: Open noon-5 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Fridays-Sundays, 18921 Atkins Rd., Lodi, (209) 642-8880; bokischvineyards.com
WOO GIRL! Cellars: Open noon-5 p.m. Fridays-Sundays, 11070 E. Woodbridge Rd., Acampo, (209) 901-9643; woogirlcellars.com
Oak Farm Vineyards: Open 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Mondays-Wednesdays, 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Thursdays, 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays, 9 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays, 23627 N. Devries Rd., Lodi, (209) 365-656; oakfarmvineyards.com
Pietro’s Trattoria: Open 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fridays, 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturdays, 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays, 317 E. Kettleman Ln., Lodi, (209) 368-0613; pietroslodi.com
Papapavlo’s Bistro & Bar: Open 11:30 a.m.-8:30 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays, 217 N. School St., Lodi, (209) 625-8677; papapavlos.com