Taste-Off: The tastiest frozen enchiladas — and the ones to leave in the freezer case

Spicy, earthy and packed with layers of umami, an enchilada drenched in sauce is the kind of comforting deliciousness that’s tough to beat — especially if you don’t have to chop, cook, shred, fry and roll the ingredients yourself.

When the craving for enchiladas hits, restaurant takeout is a great option, but even easier is to shop the frozen aisle, where there’s a generous selection of enchiladas made every which way. They come stuffed with chicken, meat, cheese, beans, vegetables, even tofu. Sauces range from red to green to white.

Most frozen enchiladas come in boxes that are designed to entice — they have gorgeous styled pictures of luscious-looking enchiladas. Spoiler alert! That’s rarely what you’ll find inside the box. The fillings are rarely as generous, and often look entirely different. It’s also good to know that frozen enchiladas, even the best ones, are typically loaded with salt.

A great enchilada has a generous spoonful of rich, succulent filling wrapped up in a flavorful, tender tortilla, and is topped with bold, complex, sauce. Cheese is optional, but it does add richness and balance.

Enchiladas gone wrong are far too common. Texture can be mushy, flavors flat. But the worst of the lot are yucky bites that are way out of balance, or so packed with preservatives and fake ingredients that they don’t even taste like food.

Here are details on fork-worthy bites that will satisfy the craving for an enchilada, and the mushy bites that aren’t worth the freezer space. As serving sizes cover such a broad range, nutrition info refers to a 9-ounce serving (255 grams), no matter the size of the package.

Tapatio Chicken Enchiladas

These enchiladas deliver the authentic texture and flavor of a well made homemade enchilada. There’s also plenty of bold-flavored sauce that provides a welcome hit of heat. 342 calories, 13 g fat, 1406 mg sodium, 2 g sugar, 24 g protein. $5.49 for 10 ounces at Walmart. (4 stars)

Frontera Beef Enchiladas with Red Enchilada Sauce

Excellent tortillas and the toasty flavor of roasted chiles in the sauce make this tray of enchiladas one of the best in the freezer case. If Frontera  made these with shredded instead of ground beef, they would be restaurant quality. 470 calories, 16 g fat, 860 mg sodium, 6 g sugar, 16 g protein. $8.39 for 9 ounces at Raley’s. (3 1/2 stars)

Realgood Foods Chicken Enchiladas

This gluten-free option smothered in mild tomatillo sauce is a fresh, lime-forward, garlicky mouthful. The “tortilla” looks like a flour tortilla, but it’s actually made with chicken and parmesan, hence the blast of protein in this meal. 240 calories, 10 g fat, 1230 mg sodium, 4 g sugar, 31 g protein. $6.39 for 9 ounces at Target. (3 1/2 stars)

 

Stouffer’s Chicken Enchiladas, Family Size

The mash of chicken and beans inside these extra-thick tortillas is comforting and the sauce, while minimal, is tasty. The generous layer of cheese is a bonus. These are a great option for young eaters who are spice-averse. 370 calories, 11 g fat, 1158 mg sodium, 5 g sugar, 20 g protein. $10.99 for 30 ounces at Safeway. (3 stars)

Saffron Road Chicken Enchiladas Poblano

The spinach-cheese-chicken mixture inside these enchiladas is a solid effort, and the tortillas are delightfully corn-forward. The sides of rice and black beans are perfectly cooked, but every component of this meal begs for salt. 360 calories, 15 g fat, 640 mg sodium, 2 g sugar, 14 g protein. $7.39 for 10 ounces at Raley’s. (2 1/2 stars)

Amy’s Roasted Poblano Enchiladas

Made with tofu and an array of vegetables, these are entirely edible, but they are texturally unpleasant as the corn tortillas have gone mushy. 445 calories, 25 g fat, 880 mg sodium, 7 g sugar, 20 g protein. $6.98 for 9.1 ounces at Raley’s. (1 1/2 stars)

El Monterey Signature Beef Enchiladas

As delicious as the picture on the package looks, these enchiladas are anything but. The filling is pasty and pocked with chewy onions. And the only heat comes from a big punch of black pepper. 403 calories, 17 g fat, 771 mg sodium, 3.5 g sugar, 19 g protein. $5.99 for 10.25 ounces at Safeway. (1 star)

Trader Joe’s Chicken Enchiladas with Salsa Verde

This generous tray of two enchiladas made with corn tortillas looks appetizing but it is awash in palate-punishing raw onion flavor. Even fans of onion will be hard-pressed to enjoy these. 349 calories, 12 g fat, 774 mg sodium, 1 g sugar, 26 g protein. $4.99 for 16.5 ounces. (1 star)

Smart Ones Chicken Enchiladas Suiza

Truly smart ones will steer clear of this brand that features two of the tiniest, enchiladas ever — about 3 inches long. Alongside is a spicy “sour cream” sauce that tastes like canned soup. Even the rice is tasteless. 290 calories, 6 g fat, 750 mg sodium, 6 g sugar, 12 g protein. $4.19 at for 9 ounces at Raley’s. (no stars)

Lean Cuisine Comfort Cravings Chicken Enchilada Suiza

This tray that includes one small enchilada is swimming in sauce that’s trying to taste like cilantro, but actually tastes like medicine. Inside the dry, tough tortilla is a teaspoon of what tastes like canned chicken cooked up into a tomato stew. 300 calories, 4.5 g fat, 590 mg sodium, 6 g sugar, 12 g protein. $4.79 for 9 ounces at Raley’s. (no stars)

Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufacturers. Contact Jolene Thym at [email protected]. Read more Taste-off columns at www.mercurynews.com/tag/taste-off.

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