There is a saying, “Paris au printemps,” which means “Paris in springtime.” Perhaps there should also be a saying “Italia d’estate,” which means “Italy in summer,” because if my social media means anything, almost everyone that I know is there right now.
One great thing about having friends who travel is that they send you pictures — of food, sure, but also of drinks. A friend visiting Milan recently sent me a photo of her passion fruit spritz.
Aperol and Campari spritzes have been all the rage for quite some time now, which I’m sure warms the heart — and bank accounts — of Campari Group, which owns both brands. But just as suddenly as something hits it big in the cocktail world, just as suddenly, the variations start to appear.
Fruit is the variation en vogue right now. There are a couple of ways to add fruit flavors to your next cocktail. The first is to use fruit-flavored liqueurs or vodkas. These certainly add the flavor necessary for cocktails. Liqueurs tend to be quite sweet, whereas flavored vodkas, especially good-quality ones, are usually not, or at least not as much. Both are incredibly consistent, which makes them a cinch in cocktails.
The second way is to use high-quality fruit syrups. You can make your own, or you can buy premium-quality versions from several local producers. Just make sure that they use a sweetener that you are comfortable with. Most inexpensive brands are nothing more than high-fructose corn syrup and water.
You can also use purees or concentrates. Purees and concentrates have certain advantages over fresh fruit. If you use fresh fruit to make your own puree, you will need to add sugar, as fresh fruit is not nearly sweet enough on its own for cocktails. (It’s quite a bit more acidic than you think.) Purees can separate, which is both distasteful in appearance and problematic when mixing. I find that concentrates help mitigate that problem, and usually they have just enough added sugar for balance.
Lastly, you can use fresh fruit. This can be more difficult than you think, since fresh fruit varies during its season. For instance, at their peak, blackberries are fantastically sweet and delicious, but turn bitingly acidic and bitter just a week later. The answer to bitter has always been sweet. And the best cocktails are the right balance between the two. If you use fresh berries, you can muddle a few just for flavor. If you add more, you will have to add sugar in one form or another — honey, agave, sugar, etc. — to achieve that balance.
Here are four different fruit spritz variations, each made with a different method. All have been localized; that way, you can enjoy your Italia d’estate right here in the Mediterranean climate of Northern California. (A special thanks to Joan for the passion fruit spritz recipe, all the way from Milan!)
A Hugo spritz featuring elderflower, lemon and mint flavors offers refreshment from the summer heat. (Courtesy Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post)
Hugo Spritz
INGREDIENTS
3/4 ounce Alamere Spirits vodka
3/4 ounce Williams Sonoma elderflower syrup
1/2 ounce Meyer lemon juice
4 sprigs fresh mint (preferably peppermint, which has smaller leaves than spearmint)
1 ounce sparkling wine
3/4 ounce sparkling water
DIRECTIONS
Combine mint, vodka, elderflower syrup and lemon juice in a mixing glass with ice. Shake until well incorporated. Pour entire contents into a large wineglass, top with ice, and then add sparkling wine and soda. Stir gently to combine.
Passion Fruit Spritz
INGREDIENTS
1 ounce Lo-Fi Gentian Amaro
1 ounce Perfect Puree of Napa Valley’s Passion Fruit Concentrate
1 ounce sparkling wine
3/4 ounce sparkling water
DIRECTIONS
Combine amaro and passion fruit concentrate in a large wineglass filled with ice. Add sparkling wine and soda. Stir gently to combine.
Strawberry Spritz
INGREDIENTS
1 ounce Young & Yonder California Amaro
1 ounce sparkling wine
3/4 ounce sparkling water
3 stemmed, washed and sliced fresh strawberries (about 1 inch in diameter)
1 fresh strawberry with stem, washed
DIRECTIONS
Muddle strawberries in the bottom of a mixing glass until broken up. Add ice and amaro. Shake to combine and then pour the entire contents into a large wineglass. Add more ice, top with soda and sparkling wine. Stir gently to combine. Place the strawberry with the stem on top for garnish.
The limoncello spritz is a refreshing summer drink. (Paul Bersebach, Orange County Register/SCNG)
Limoncello Spritz
INGREDIENTS
1 1/2 ounces Hanson Meyer Lemon Vodka
1/2 ounce fresh-squeezed Meyer lemon juice
1/4 ounce simple syrup
1 ounce sparkling wine
3/4 ounce sparkling water
Washed Meyer lemon for zesting
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DIRECTIONS
Combine vodka, lemon juice and simple syrup in a mixing glass with ice. Shake to combine and then pour the entire contents into a large wineglass. Add ice to fill and then top with soda and sparkling wine. Stir to combine. Zest lemon on top for garnish.
Jeff Burkhart is the author of “Twenty Years Behind Bars: The Spirited Adventures of a Real Bartender, Vol. I and II,” the host of the Barfly Podcast on iTunes (as seen in the NY Times) and an award-winning bartender at a local restaurant. Follow him at jeffburkhart.net and contact him at [email protected].